Jam贸n is one of Spain's most famous products, and you will surely want to try a high-quality one during your visit. While choosing one might seem easy, it is actually regulated by law in Spain and is something you need to understand so you don't get misled.
The Iberian Breed
Iberian pig in a Dehesa
The most important factor in a jam贸n is understanding the breed of the pig. One of the main characteristics of a good jam贸n is that the pig's fat has infiltrated into fine marbling within the meat, and the best pig breed for this is the Iberian pig (cerdo ib茅rico). Even so, the jam贸n sold as 'ib茅rico' is usually between 50% and 75% Iberian, with the 'Duroc' being legally the only other breed these pigs can be crossed with. If you don't clearly see the word 'ib茅rico' on the jam贸n's label, it means the jam贸n comes from a regular white pig (Iberian pigs are dark-skinned).
The Label: A Key Factor
In Royal Decree 4/2014, the Government of Spain introduced quality regulations for Iberian jam贸n to guarantee its origin to consumers. It is legal to sell jam贸n outside of this quality standard, but remember that if it does not adhere to it, they cannot sell it to you as 'ib茅rico' (even if it actually is; at that point, it's a matter of whether you trust the seller). To differentiate between the types of jam贸n, a labeling system was created, and it is mandatory for the jam贸n leg to have one. Below, I explain the differences, ordered from highest to lowest quality:
Different types of ham labels, Source: detallesibericos.com
Black label or 100% ib茅rico acorn-fed jam贸n (jam贸n de bellota): These are pigs whose breed is 100% Iberian (they are not crossed with Duroc). They have lived their entire lives in the wild, eating feed and legumes during their growth phase, and in the final fattening stage, they have fed exclusively on acorns.
Red label or acorn-fed jam贸n (jam贸n de bellota): The rearing of the pig is exactly the same as the black label, with the only difference being that the pig's Iberian percentage varies between 50% and 75%.
Green label or free-range grain-fed jam贸n (cebo de campo): The Iberian percentage can vary between 50% and 75% (the percentage must be explicitly stated). The pig is raised free-range, but feeds only on grain and legumes.
White label or grain-fed jam贸n (jam贸n de cebo): The difference between this type and the previous one is that the pig is raised on farms and not outdoors.
Protected Designation of Origin (P.D.O.), What Is It?
P.D.O.s (D.O.P. in Spanish) are quality seals awarded by the European Union that guarantee higher quality standards than other products. If a jam贸n has one, it must legally indicate it, but what does having a P.D.O. actually mean? It means that the entire production process of that jam贸n has taken place within the same geographical region and it has been cured in drying houses regulated by a Regulatory Council, which guarantees that traditional local techniques have been followed and that it is not a simple industrial product. Although it might seem irrelevant, the local climate and terrain enormously influence the quality of a jam贸n. In Spain, there are only 5 regions with a P.D.O.: